The summer of 2005 was my first visit to the Northwest Passage. I led a northern painting programme with Quest Nature Tours. In my free time I explored the landscape with a group of paddlers. My mind wandered with the flight of Northern Fulmars, the shapes of the clouds and the lap of the ice against my kayak. I meditated with the rhythms of the sea. I absorbed the Arctic one stroke at a time.

I was unprepared for the power of the Jacobshaven Glacier. We paddled out of Ilulissat. The multi coloured homes faded behind. I could hear myself gasp while turning the corner to greet the gigantic icebergs. Surrounded by ice castles, I paddled slowly committing to memory the dazzle of the sun on all the different shapes: wedge, dome, pinnacle. I sketched, relishing the sound of ice cracking in the sub zero weather, ignoring the cold as it slowed my fingers. Back on board ship, I painted after midnight, looking out the port hole for reminders of our surroundings. I wanted to capture the energy and magic of this northern land.

The most exhilarating experience was 6:30 am on our second last morning. We were anchored off the Prince Leopold Islands. The crash of rock slides down these cliffs reminded us of nature’s fury. The wind was high and we boarded our kayaks from zodiacs. As I tightened my skirt around my kayak I could feel myself being sucked under the zodiac. I pushed away to be greeted by eight foot swells and headed up wind putting distance between me and the group. The adrenaline rushed in. With guidance I redirected and paddled as close to the cliffs as I dared. Unexpectedly the wind slammed down the cliffs in gusts greeting the swells. I tossed about. The Murres flew, dove, and swam about all the while serenading. They were on their way to Newfoundland! I felt a major sense of relief and accomplishment once safe back on board the ship.

Back at home in my studio on Georgian Bay I look through my sketches and relive my last two voyages. I paint wax on, scrape it off, add colour, take it away. It’s just like paddling, one stroke at a time, sometimes calmly, sometimes in a frenzy, sometimes creating comes easy, sometimes not. I savour the challenge.

I’m preparing to return to the Arctic for my third summer. We’re heading farther north to Ellesmere Island. The barrenness, the ever changing skies and ice castles have hooked me. The Arctic beckons. She is in my soul.